Taos (SKX)

Taos is one of our favorite places - about a 2 hour flight from Boulder.  A good starting point for Taos info is the online version of their weekly newspaper - The Taos News.  Our usual route takes us south along the front range to Pueblo (avoid the military restricted areas.) 

From Boulder, we usually head south along the front range, skirting the Colorado Springs airspace, to Pueblo and then to Walsenburg.   Take a right (west) and go over La Veta pass (the pic on the right is looking south from the pass) and then continue south to Taos.  If you're going VFR,  thenLa Veta 1.jpg (13373 bytes) be sure to hit the pass early - during the summer you'll get the usual afternoon cumulo buildup that can obscure the ridges and produce thunderstorms.   Swing out a little further west after clearing the pass and the Rio Grande is a nice "road" to follow. Taos Airport Sky.jpg (14064 bytes) The airport will be east of the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. The picture is of the airport looking to the east.  Be sure to avoid overflying the Taos Pueblo at less than 2000.'

   Taos Aviation Services is the FBO  and Enterprise has a rental car office there.    You'll need a car because there's no taxi service.   All the stuff that you can stuff into a 182,  on the ramp at Taos.  General rule of thumbTaos Ramp.jpg (22542 bytes) is if you can fit it in the airplane you'll still be within W&B limits.  But it's still a good idea to do the calculations.  Especially during the summer.  On this day, the density altitude was 9000 feet.

 

 

Dog Friendly Lodging:

Taos Lodging.  These people own or manage several properties that are "casitas" or condos.  Our new favorite because the units are reasonably priced, immaculately clean, have kitchenettes and great character.  And, they allow "well-behaved" dogs.  There is even a dog exercise area with plastic pick-up bags.  Easy walking distance to the Plaza and the Taos Inn patio.

Old Taos Guesthouse.  Taos Lodging was full so we booked a room at this B&B off of Kit Carson Road.  It's about 1.8 miles from the Plaza so not really strolling distance but it's a quick drive down Kit Carson and you can park in the free municipal parking lot and then walk 2 blocks to the Plaza with access to restaurants, galleries and shops.  Rooms are reasonably priced (less than $100/night including breakfast) and they have 2 rooms set aside for dogs.  This is a beautiful property that began as a 180 year old farmhouse with additions.  From the "backyard" you can sit with a great view to the west and watch the owners' horses or pet the B&B dog, Molly.  Our room was comfortably furnished and squeaky clean but we did have some issues.  Although cool during the day with both an opening window and screen door,  it seemed to retain heat and was a warm & stuffy for much of the night.  Also,  the bathroom was really small.  (Not as small as the Hotel Empress Zoe in Istanbul but close.)  It also faced the hot tub and one night we were listening to hot tub chatter till about 1:30am.  That said,  we'll definitely return - maybe try to cajole a different room.  And, breakfasts were outstanding!

The Fechin Inn.  An upscale hotel with lovely rooms and a fantastic breakfast (for which they charge $15/person.) They also seem to have recently acquired an "attitude" and the problem is they now only accept dogs that are less than 20 pounds!   Fine if you have Schnauzers but Simon & Idgie are no longer welcome.

Restaurants:

Here are a few of our favorites.  You won't go hungry in Taos, there are many more from which to choose.

Orlando's. 

One of our all-time favorites.  Sit out on the patio and have their "build-your-own-bowl" meal.  For lunch,  I have posole with green chile, onions, tomatos and lettuce accompanied by a Fat Tire (beer.)   Dinner is usually the carne adovada with chile caribe which is to die for!   The rest of the menu is "home-style" New Mexican and their desserts are superb.  Orlando's also has a unique "fly-repellent" system on the patio.  They claim that these plastic bags filled with water cause a reflection which keeps away the flys.  They may be right,  we rarely see a fly when sitting outside. 

Taos Pizza Outback. One of the best pizzas you'll ever have and they also have interesting pasta dishes.  Really casual and a refreshing throwback to a more laid-back time.

Momentitos de la Vida.  In Arroyo Seco on the way to the Taos Ski Valley.  One of the most pretentious places we've ever been but if you can deal with the attitude, the food is astounding!  So are the prices.  Expect entrees in the $24-$34 range.  This is the place where you *might* see some celebrities but I've never recognized anyone however Sue claims she saw Donatella Versace.  How would you know and why would you care?

Lambert's.  Consistently excellent food - contemporary American.  Upscale but relaxed and friendly.  

The Apple Tree.  Walking distance from most of Taos Lodging places and the Fechin Inn.  We've never been disappointed with their eclectic menu.

Most over rated restaurant (in our opinion:)  Doc Martin's.  This place always seems to be recommended but I don't think they deliver more than just average food.

Things to do.

Wander the streets and check out the various galleries and shops.  There are also many worthwhile museums to visit such as the Martinez Hacienda, the Kit Carson House and the Blumenschein House.

Ever wonder what Chaco Canyon or Mesa Verde might have looked like when occupied?  Then a visit to the Taos Pueblo is mandatory.  Bear in mind that this is NOT a museum or *attraction.*  It is a living community that has been in existence since around 1200 A.D.  The casino, however, is much more contemporary.  

The Patio at the Taos Inn is a mandatory, almost daily stop for late afternoon martinis. The best view for watching the main drag and they allow dogs on the patio.  Best of all the server usually brings a bowl of water for Simon & Idgie.

Browse the bookstores like the Brodsky Bookstore, Moby Dickens or the Taos Bookstore.  Pick up a copy of John Nichols' classic Milagro Beanfield War if you haven't read it.  But most of his other books, fiction and non-fiction are fabulous, even if he is a self-proclaimed Marxist-Leninist.  Hey, no one's perfect!  Frank Waters' last book "Of Time and Change" is a fantastic memoir of many of the artists and individuals who contributed so much to the character of Taos in the early half of the 20th century.  Frank Waters, a Taos icon, personally knew the people who's names you see around Taos like Mabel Dodge Lujan,  Dorothy Brett and  Nicolai Fechin.   

Hiking. While at one of the bookstores buy a copy of "Day Hikes in the Taos Area" and a map of the Carson National forestLa Cueva Trail 2.jpg (39486 bytes) as guides. La Cueva Trail 1.jpg (90411 bytes) A jaunt down into the Rio Grande Gorge is a good way to work up an appetite.  A good access point is from Cebolla Mesa between Taos and Questa at the Lamy intersection.  Hikes out of Tres Ritos or Las Trampas are beautiful and you won't see many people.  There are many good trails leading out of the Ski Area, too.  The lower trails tend to see more foot traffic, but that's relative.  Anyone familiar with Colorado Front Range trail jams will appreciate hiking in New Mexico.

The La Chiripada Winery in Dixon is about a 45 minute drive and fun for wine tasting.  We especially like their Special Reserve Riesling which is perfect with spicy New Mexican foods or Thai dishes.